San Quirico, Lucca .
4. San Quirico d'Orcia-Siena (15/06/2010).
Dist 47.26 km; Asc. 541 m.; T. Tot. 6:34; T. Mov. 3:34; IBP. 53AC.
Today at the end of the day I expected one of the places that she longed to visit Siena, one of the "capital of Tuscany and place to visit. That, along the beautiful Tuscan - Val d'Orcia and Crete Senese - will make this day one of the most beautiful trip. Unfortunately time starts to go wrong with some rain. Water will not be the worst, but its consequences. The wet brush on the trails and mud on some tracks will make your day hard.
San Quirico output is by road without traffic, following the SP137-Vecchia avoiding the SS2 Cassia, falling-apart from a short distance to climb from the river to Podere S. Tuomo Giuseppe-up Torrenieri. Undulating landscape of vineyards, olive groves and cereal fields dominated by Montalcino.
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| Montalcino from the Via Cassia |
After crossing Torrenieri , because the weather is a little shaky state continued for the SS2 (caution since it has traffic and at times is narrow) to Buonconvento. I follow the directions on the Via Francigena Guide Monica D'Atti, although it is possible to avoid the highway by road following the route marked out by the Ministry Altesino passing.
In Buonconvento worthwhile detour a few meters to reach the historic center, which preserves the Palazzo Pretorio and one of the ancient gates City (XII century, the Porta Senese-north direction, and Porta Romana Siena-south, destroyed by the retreating Germans in 1944 -). At the exit, the route coincides with the marking of the route by bike The Eroica to leave following parallel to the railway in the direction of Ponte d'Arbia and Quinciano. It is a difficult and uncomfortable stretch (in some cases it is necessary to go on foot) as the track and trail, with little use and virtually abandoned is occupied by vegetation. Only confirmed to be in the right direction signage and narrow path by the passage of pilgrims. Freshly fallen rain that covers the grass just soaking. The rest of the day I will have wet feet.
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| Path reaching |
Reaching Quinciano starts raining required to protect for a while under one roof. When I decide to continue taking me subsides first scare of the trip. The fine rain has soaked the track and leaving it, the front wheel slips me and I fall into the mud. It was nothing serious but I just did a christ.
The next 5 miles to be a Grancia di Cuna hell. The clay loam impossible pedal, creating a sticky mass that clogs the wheels and chain. And push is much easier with a mud clogs rather than shoes. There's escape down to Monteroni d'Arbia and continue by road, but I did not drop so easily. Without mud must be one of the sections more "disfrutones" day.
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| Grancia di Cuna |
Grancia di Cuna is my salvation. Just the mud and a source I can remove much of the mud from the bike may well continue pedaling. Siena is already in the skyline.
New hotspot with signaling in Isola d'Arbia. The official signs (red and white Isola avoids reaching the Colle Vecchio Borgo Malamerenda. I follow the yellow arrows that come in Isola d'Arbia to visit the Church of San Ilario. On leaving the arrows leading to a large field wheat in the valley of the Arbia Fiume. Do not look too good because you have to push the bike between two fields and the 500 meters decided to go back, seeing no clear exit, and follow the guide. From a Isola small road leads to a halt Train next to an industrial area, where I rediscover some old signal. Another dead end because after several turns of the polygon just new to the station. Finally the only option is to continue for about 600 meters along the railroad tracks (very careful because there is little room) to a level crossing where reunion abandoned signs. An overgrown trail ascends to Vecchio Borgo, to the difficulties.
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| Getting to Siena |
Recent miles are along the Strada di Certosa (local road without traffic) to enter by the Porta Romana Siena. Thanks to the recommendation of the French pilgrim I go directly to the Carità di S. Vicenzo (in the Piazza S. Girolamo, entering the city about 600 meters from the Porta Romana), although it is possible to stay at the Youth Hostel (worst located 2.2 kilometers out of Siena for the Porta Camollia). ; I get Sister Ginetta, all busy to be fighting for all we got. About how I look I look terrible, with the bike and his clothes covered with mud, after the fall near Monteroni.
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| Piazza del Campo. Siena |
Although the day has been very intense and full of vicissitudes, I arrived early to Siena to dedicate the evening to visit. Who has not wanted to watch "in situ" the famous Piazza del Campo, or marvel at the imposing cathedral of Siena, the Duomo.
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| Duomo of Siena |
In the evening return to the hostel soon as it rains, for dinner and rest. Begin to adapt to the times of pilgrimage, which require to be collected soon. I leave with deep gratitude of Sister Ginetta, promising that if I pray to Santiago Santiago recovery by a sick relative. His goodness will be one of the memories that accompany this journey and for life.
Accommodation: Suore della Carita di S. Vincenzo , Piazza S. Girolamo, Sr Ginetta, tel. 0577-21271. OP. Located at the entrance of Siena, 600 m. the Porta Romana. The nuns have a soup kitchen and offer hospitality to pilgrims (bedroom with bunk beds, bathroom, is possible to eat and when they have finished dinner, to meet the rest of the people-). They were very kind to me, allowing me to dinner and breakfast. It was one of the oddest places where I found about 10. Highly recommended.
Hospitality pilgrim.
- Torrenieri : parish of S. Maria Maddalena, Don Sergio Soldini, tel. 0577-83-41-38. Hospitality House beds, 25 €.
- Buonconvento : S. Parish Pietro e Paolo, Tel. 0577-80.60.89. OP.
- Ponte D'Arbia : Center Cresti, sra. Patrizia Lotti, telf. 0577-37.00.96. OP.
Siena.
- Siena : Youth Hostel, Via Fiorentina 89 (Saliendo de siena 2.2 Km después de la Porta Camollia). 0577-52212. € 13.52.
Otros Alojamientos.
- Monteroni d'Arbia : Hotel Bella Napoli.
- Siena: Hotel La Perla , Camping Colleverde .
Highlights.
- Torrenieri . The Turreiner, XIII submansio of Sigerico itinerary.
- Buonconvento . Surrounded by fourteenth century walls with two doors: Porta Senese (on the north side, coming from Siena) and Porta Romana (on the south side, coming from Rome, destroyed in 1944 by the retreating Germans.) Named for the first time in a document of 1191, where the King of France Filippo Augusto remember making a stop on its way Via Francigena to return from the Crusades.
- Pieve di Piana . Former parish church cloister. Located in a safe place for its difficult access, in the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries it was fortified and the bishop of Siena lived there during the "times of civil unrest."
- Quinciano . Church of St. Alban . In the fourteenth century belongs to the Tolomei family of Siena.
- Grancia di Cuna. Fortified farm belonging to the Spedale della Scala di Siena.
- Isola d'Arbia . Church of San Ilario, holy highly revered in France, with a facade decorated with white marble and inlaid serpentine green.
- Colle Malamerenda . Group homes were hospital church. It is said that the name derives from a meal ("snack") unfortunately held in a nearby tavern for two Sienese families (Salimbeni and Tolomei) that led to a cruel slaughter.
- Siena. The historical center was declared a World Heritage Site in 1995. Highlights: the Cathedral (XII century, an example of Italian Gothic) and the Piazza del Campo (fan-shaped, where the Palazzo Publico with its famous bell tower, and where is the famous horse race the Palio horse race.)
5. Siena-San Gimignano (16/06/2010).
Dist 38.59 km; Asc. 465 m.; T. Tot. 5:11; T. Mov. 2:57; IBP. 49AC.
Ahead one day short of the Val d'Elsa . I can not help the temptation to stop at San Gimignano , one of the most emblematic places of Tuscany with its impressive skyline. There is also the question of how to find the ways by recent rains after the bad memories of yesterday.
I leave Siena on the Via Cassia Nord-Sr2 (following the signs from the Ministry of Culture State could avoid going through the Porta Camollia) to San Martino, where you take the Strada Pian Lake-SP101. Shortly afterwards the Via Francigena leads to Villa per track. Unfortunately the road is cut by the army, which seems to be doing maneuvers, so I am forced to return to the province that leads to Monteriggioni. I'm not seeing Cerbaia (ancient medieval village) and the Castello della Chiocciola.
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| Reaching | Monteriggioni
A mile marks leave the asphalt, passing near Bracciano, reaching near Monteriggioni for a nice track between forest and a stretch of trail. Although it is not necessary to deviate, you can go straight to Abbadia Isola, Monteriggioni visit is well worth a short rodeo.
My weakness has always been the people with a castle and this is "book." The whole village is surrounded by well preserved walls. It is also possible to climb to the canvas to admire the panorama. I also visit the small but cozy hostel for pilgrims available to Monteriggioni.
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| Monteriggioni |
Abbadia a Isola In again there are two possibilities. The red and white signs Ministry prevents the asphalt through Strove, Gracciano dell'Elsa, and Campiglia Quartaia to San Gimignano. Or the yellow arrows, taking the provincial SP5 (moderate traffic) that leads to Colle di Val d'Elsa. I definitely decided to follow the yellow arrows and the information I have (Terre Dimezzo guides) for several reasons: although the official signaling largely avoids the tarmac, tracks and paths that offer travel, in my opinion, many difficulties to perform mountain bike loaded with panniers, to follow in some cases have ended in a deadlock (roads blocked by vegetation or cut by private farms), the majority of the pilgrims I met used as the reference path Confraternita of San Jacopo (described in Terre Dimezzo guides), the yellow arrows offer a compromise between asphalt and difficulty, and information available to me during the trip, both paper and on the gps, describes the latter route.
Left Behind Colle di Val d'Elsa begins one of the most beautiful stretches of the day. Tracks, roads and trails through forests, olive groves and vineyards, with the towers of San Gimignano in the background. A technical section of trail and a track covered with vegetation which makes uncomfortable ride, always very aware of the signs (easy mistake).
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Leaving SS68 population by taking a small road that quickly turns into a track parallel to the Rio Vallebona, leading to Podere Borboni. First point of orientation difficult, next to a chapel the track which leads to Bibbiano. The second sticking point is Bibbiano output, as the track becomes a way of agriculture, wide but covered with grass (a stretch on foot), between two vineyards that ends in a grove. Watch out because you have to take a small trail (well marked, depending on the vegetation may be more or less difficult) that descends into the forest to hit the road coming down from Bibbiano (the SP36). Just outside the SP1 (Poggibonsi-San Gimignano) turn left to go to Santa Lucia and San Gimignano enter the Via di Castel.
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Log in San Gimignano by Porta San Giovanni is like time travel to the Middle Ages, if not for the tour groups that fill the streets, of a time now tour operators include your visit in their travels around Tuscany.
First, find accommodation. I turn to the Monastery of San Girolamo, who has guest quarters, and closed meeting. I return to the Piazza del Duomo to ask the tourist office and make time until they open, while a wonderful pizza-invented the pizza. Afternoon and return to the monastery to see if I can sleep. Remains closed and no one answers the bell. After half an hour, a little desperate, finally appears very kind nun who opens.
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| Torri dei Salvuci. San Gimignano |
showered, eaten and rested, for a walk. I understand why San Gimignano has become one of the tourist destinations of Tuscany. A perfectly preserved medieval city dedicated to tourism, surrounded by the Tuscan countryside and the most characteristic: its 14 impressive towers, ripping the sky in competition for what is the highest (at that time became 72), which dominate the profile of the city. Besides getting lost in the streets, three recommendations: to visit the Palazzo del Popolo and climb to the top of the Torre Grossa (great picture) Take a short walk outside along the east wall (from the Porta S. Giovanni Via Bonda, through Porta alle Fonti, to Porta S. Jacopo, and up in the evening to the castle Rocca di Montestaffoli to see the sunset.
By the way, see the end of the first match of Spain Soccer World (Spain Switzerland 0-1), sitting on the floor of the Piazza della Cisterna with a large group of English (I think that students travel to the course). A big disappointment. Who would to imagine what would end up happening.
Accommodation: Monastero S. Girolamo, Suor Benedettine, tel. 0577-94.05.73. € 25.00 AD The monastery offers inn. Rather expensive but modern and functional. Nice treatment. Recommended.
Hospitality pilgrim.
Monteriggioni.
- Family House Podere "Il Santo" (600 m Monteriggioni). Piero Bernardi call tel. Pierre Morini 0577-30.44.69 or tel. 335-66.77.922.
- San Gimignano : Convento S. Agostino (for pilgrims with spiritual intention not hikers), father Brian. 0577-90.70.12. OP.
Other Lodging.
- Monteriggioni : Casanuova .
- Colle di Val d'Elsa : Agriturismo Podere Campinovi (Campinovi Loc Gracciano).
- San Gimignano : Casa Giovanna, Il Camping Boschetto di Piemme (Loc Santa Lucia).
points of interest.
- Monteriggioni. The most classic and best preserved example of a fortified Italian town. Announced to all who came to Florence he entered the territory of Siena, historic enemies. Built by the Sienese in the thirteenth century to control and Staggia Elsa valleys. Has 570 meters of wall, 14 towers and three gates.
- Abbadia a Isola . XVI Burgenove Sigerico submansio's itinerary. Abbey founded in 1001 by Cistercian monks, located in a high surrounded by wetlands, which the monks during the time they were recovering. The 1376 is fortified by the Republic of Siena to defend from the ravages of mercenaries. In the sixteenth century fell into decline.
- Colle Val d'Elsa . City at three levels: Borgo Santa Caterina, Castello Piticciano and Piano. The first two, the oldest medieval houses and palaces, on the ridge overlooking the valley where it lies Piano, the most modern. Feud in the tenth century Aldobrandeschi family, played by Siena and Florence.
- Bibbiano . Former hospital on the Via Francigena break point between San Gimignano and Colle Val d'Elsa. Legend has it that on a nearby hill, Poggio Santo Chiodo, a nail was found belonging to the cross of Christ, now venerated in Colle Val d'Elsa.
- San Gimignano . Recognizable from afar by characteristic silhouette packed towers. Had its greatest development in the Middle Ages with the height of the Via Francigena. I get to have 72 towers of which "only" have 14.
6. San Gimignano, Lucca (17/06/2010).
Dist 81.08 km; Asc. 882 m.; T. Tot. 9:08; T. Mov. 5:41; IBP. 94BC.
San Gimignano output is done by road to Pancole (first on the Sp69, which may have some traffic, and then by Sp1), although it is a small rodeo, per track, to visit the Church of Santa Maria in Cellole. The environment during these first few miles is beautiful, moving between a "puzzle" of hardwood forests, crops and vineyards, typical of this area of \u200b\u200bTuscany. If you look back you can admire the skyline of San Gimignano which dominates the skyline.
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De Pancole to Gambassi Terme is a sequence of tracks, with some section of the path (like all we're going find ourselves, a small path between weed cover almost) near Torrente dei Casciani, which passes near the little Church of San Pietro (closed, not open to visitors).
In Gambassi Terme, we return to Asphalt (Sp4 to Borgoforte, there may be some traffic at the exit of Gambassi can make a stop to see the Church of Chianni ) for a couple of miles, to return to leave until Coiano along paths and tracks.
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| Among Gambassi and Coiano |
In Coiano, first occurrence of the day. Francigena signaling continues straight on towards Via della Capriano Poggiarella, but the track is cut off by works with a no trespassing signage (both vehicles and pedestrians). Ask a neighbor who tells me that although the work can go on foot, so fences continued until I cut a step. After a "dialogue" with some workers, not without some tension, the voices of the head and one with a face and a hammer in hand, will give up on spending and return to Coiano.
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| Coiano Trail near |
I am in a dead end and there is the problem of where to continue. Paper maps that I have not wide enough. Consulting the GPS decided to Castelnuovo d'Elsa descencer I try to connect by road. After a few km from the Valle d'Elsa, small local roads following Coianese-Via, Via Sanminiatese, Via Meleto, "refers to the signs up from the Via Canneto Castelfiorentino and reach San Miniato. End of bad shot.
Over the morning the clouds have gone to thicken and reaching San Miniato the sky breaks. Came to town under an impressive curtain of water, which makes the streets resemble torrents. Completely soaked seek refuge in the square, recovering some heat with hot coffee. Tourism is for another time.
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After about an hour finally subsides and continued on his way down to San Miniato Basso at the bottom of Arno Valley. Cross the wide plain, through Fucecchio , to Ponte a Cappiano. Directions from the state road-Ss436-and urban sections, attention to the road, especially coming out of San Miniato.
Just across the bridge over the Canale Usciana (it works) in Ponte a Cappiano I meet the first and only bicigrinos to Rome. From here is the final hill of the day to leave the Arno Valley across the Sierra de la Cerbaie forest. In Poggio Adorno, once the costs, starts a beautiful stretch of track and road pieces (restored and signposted by the Comitato per la Via di Galleno Francigena ) to Galleno.
At the end of the Galleno few meters you can see well-preserved medieval pavement on the track Francigena. After this journey through time, back to reality, leaving the provincial Sp3 asphalt that leads to Altopascio.
Altopascio , with its impressive bell tower and the beautiful church of San Jacopo, would be a lovely place if not for the intermittent rain that has accompanied me from Ponte a Cappiano has grown stronger forcing me to stop for a coffee under the arches of the Loggia.
The last 18 kilometers, but with much history to me are mere formality, by the accumulated fatigue and with the head start on reaching Lucca. We explore the increasingly urbanized environment (we passed Capannoti Porcari and after a detour to Abbadia di Pozzeveri,) according to provincial roads to enter Lucca.
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Once lined the wall by the Porta Elisa, the prospect of visiting this wonderful city and sun shines again in heaven, cheering again. I head to the hostel after a short detour through the Passeggiata delle Mura, where it has a good perspective the city, and the protocol visit to the tourist office. After the shower, the last hours will be to visit Lucca, full of attractions.
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Accommodation: Ostello S. Frediano (Youth Hostel), Via della Cavallerizza 12. € 17 room only. Huge hostel, with its amenities, situated in the historical center of Lucca, next to the Basilica of San Frediano and the Piazza del Anfiteatro. I took a few euros cheaper because they do not there was hot water boiler to be broken. Recommended.
Hospitality pilgrim.
- Gambassi Terme : parishes, Via Volterra 59, Don Evaristo Masini. 0571-63.82.08. OP.
- San Miniato Alto : Convento S. Francesco, tel. 0571-43051 (telephone notice required). € 25 for pilgrims walk-sac, including dinner.
- San Miniato Basso S. Mercy Miniato Basso, tel. 0571-41.94.55. Mario Giugni, tel. 0571-41.91.60. OP.
- Ponte a Cappiano : Hostel municipal telf. 0571-29.78.31. Cama y cocina, 15 €.
- Altopascio : Mansion Knights of St. James called the Tau, Dr. Licinia Scardigli. Biblioteca Comunale, telf. 0583-21.62.80, oficina de información, telf. 0583-21.65.25.
- Lucca : Ostello San Frediano , because of the Riding, telf. 12. 0583-46.99.57. € 16.
Otros Alojamientos.
- Gambassi Terme: Hotel The Towers.
Otros Alojamientos.
- Gambassi Terme: Hotel The Towers.
- Castelfiorentino : Hostel Castelfiorentino .
- Altopascio : Hotel by Paola , The Vecchiaccia .
- Porcari : Coral, Da Rino.
- Lucca: Casa Dini , Sette Arti Da Elisa to , Camping Versilia Mare (loc. Lido di Camaiore).
Puntos de interés:
- Cellole. Pieve di Santa Maria Assunta . Elegant travertine Romanesque church.
Puntos de interés:
- Cellole. Pieve di Santa Maria Assunta . Elegant travertine Romanesque church.
- Chianni. Pieve di Santa Maria Assunta . Sce Maria Glan, XXI Sigerico submansio's itinerary. Romanesque façade with three naves and two rows of galleries on three arches. In the Middle Ages had a pilgrim hospital annex.
- Coiano. Pieve dei Santi Pietro e Paolo . Petre Sce Currant, XX submansio. Romanesque basilica church.
- San Miniato Alto . Called of the church dedicated to San Miniato Martyr, built by the Lombards in 783. Situated on three hills overlooking the lower valley of the Arno. During the Middle Ages favored the passage of the Via Francigena. The castle of Rocca was built by Frederick II in 1236.
- Fucecchio . Important road junction on the Via Francigena already present in the tenth century
- Get a Cappiano . In 1019 mentions a bridge over the Canale Usciana. Destroyed in 1325 in the war between Lucca and Florence, the current data fortified bridge the sixteenth century by the will of Cosimo de Medici.
- Galleno . Via integrated rather than Franciena been heard since the eleventh century. It retains some of the old pavement that remains unchanged since medieval times.
- Badia di Pozzeveri . The abbey appears as documented in the 952, closes Gregory XII in 1408.
- Badia di Pozzeveri . The abbey appears as documented in the 952, closes Gregory XII in 1408.
- Altopascio. In the eleventh century, the hospital created Altopascio pilgrims in a Teupasso yamado Teupascio or (possibly selling altopasso-passo difficult and dangerous-). A must for Francigena Bientina between lakes and the swamps Sibolla Fucecchio, into the maquis Cerbaie (rather hilly and heavily wooded, surrounded by marshes and filled with bandits). Dedicated to San Jacopo and run by the Knights of the Tau, is responsible for the reception and protection of pilgrims traveling to Rome and Santiago. The imposing steeple was visible from the plain and the touch of his campaign, "The Smarrita" guide pilgrims. This hospital depended on others for all of Europe (Paris, Astorga and Pamplona).
- Lucca. Another of the capital of Tuscany. Unmissable. It has a medieval town center surrounded by sixteenth century walls. Account with many attractions including two jewels can be highlighted as the Pisan Romanesque Duomo of San Martino (on your porch is engraved circular maze) and San Michele in Foro. Also curious is the Piazza del Anfiteatro, which occupies the space where he was a Roman amphitheater. Birthplace of Giacomo Puccini. It venerates the Volto Santo (monumental wooden crucifix) in the Cathedral of San Martino. Tradition has been carved by Nicodemus, a disciple of Christ, brought to the port of Luni in a boat driven by angels, and I get to Lucca on a cart drawn by two buffaloes.
